After basically doing a west-about Antigua over the past several weeks between 5 Islands Bay, Jolly
Harbor, Carlisle Bay, Falmouth Harbor, Mamora Bay, and Green Island we headed up to Barbuda to
enjoy the pristine beaches of the west side near Coco Point. Ed caught a beautiful spanish
mackerel right off the bow at anchor after a few casts, enough for 2 nice meals and some leftovers
for fish spread. Eventually we worked our way through the coral heads on the south end and over to
the reef at Spanish Point.
After a week or so, we made the trek back down to Antigua to reprovision and to catch the super
megayacht race action out of English Harbor. We are now ready to head back up to Barbuda for the
last few weeks of our 3 month stay here. We have had a chance to catch-up with good friends on
'Metalia', 'Attitudes', 'M'Lady Kathleen' and 'Como No' and also have met many fine local folks at
"The Backyard", a weekend hangout spot. We'll probably head up to St. Bart's and St. Martin for a
bit then come back to Antigua again. (Thanks for the shots Roland!)
Updates from our travels in 2010
Late February found us heading up from Antigua to St. Martin under a poled-out headsail with a
southeast wind chop and northwest swell. A bit of a washing machine but very doable. We saw 2
humpback whales broaching over to the west of us - very cool! Made our way into Anse Marcel for
a rest up.
Once we made it into the Lagoon we ran into our good friends Marlene and Benno from Diesel
Duck and received an invite for dinner, much to our delight. Benno had saved several beers from
their jaunt around South America for Ed & I to try, while Marlene made a fabulous Pork Tenderloin
dinner with all the trimmings. Great to see shots of their trip and to hear all about their travels.
Made the trek over to Lady C's for their great ribs special more than once, and enjoyed some
socializing with other cruisers at the Turtle Pier burger night. Did our fair share of shopping at Cost
U Less and Le Grande Marche, plus the big Ace Hardware store and the restaurant supply store for
various odds and ends.
Mid-month we hauled-out at Island Water World's wet slip/yard. They use a crane which was new
for us, and did a good job of the haul-out, bottom prep and paint, and relaunch.
Still staying busy with boat projects such as re-plumbing the watermaker, putting a few coats of
cetol on the rubrail and all those fun things. It was a real treat when our friends Heather and Scott
on Scott Free showed up. We were able to meet their youngest son Sean and have a great, albeit
Shortly after we took off for a overnight sail from St. Martin on down to Antigua or Guadeloupe,
depending on which course we could lay. Much to our surprise and delight we laid Barbuda which
was a fantastic stop over. Soon after, down to Jolly Hbr, Antigua to get checked-in. After visiting
with John on Metalia (Marie was in Canada) for a couple of days, we headed down to Falmouth to
get a good anchoring spot before Classics week racing begins. It's amazing to us how crowded the
harbor gets during these race events - wall-to-wall cruisers!!
Quite a few observers up on Middle Ground.
The catamaran in the upper left gives you a
sense of scale of the big guys out there.
We always have a great time in Antigua, between the good shopping, restaurants and wifi spots,
and the lovely anchorages all around the island, it's hard to leave. When you get a little tired of the
hubub, just take a 25 mile day sail up to Barbuda. We spent quite a bit of time in the Five Islands
Bay area. Open to the west with nice views, beaches and hills to hike. Below are a couple of shots
from the area. We spent the entire month hanging out around Antigua with the exception of the 2
weeks I spent back in the states dealing with family matters.
June sees us heading down to Martinique hoping for some good face time with our friends Shawn
and Joe on Libertas. We had a great sail south from Falmouth Hbr, Antigua to Le Marin, Martinique
(with a couple of quick stops in between) and we are now enjoying the very different French
ambience of this island. It’s been 3 years since we spent any time here other than an overnight stop
or 2 so our memory of shops, restaurants and other amenities is a bit outdated. Luckily our friends
on Libertas and Kool Kat have been here scoping out all the details and have happily taken us in
tow to the more obscure shops and eateries. Lots of beautiful fresh fruit, baguettes and cheese!
We’ve been having a great time. We’ll stay here for a few more weeks then continue on south,
eventually making for Grenada.
Our first night in Martinique was spent in the small bay Anse Dufour, just inside the mouth of the
large bay of Fort-de-France. The water in the bay is deep and even well up into Anse Dufour it was
200’. Believe me, this made for some great cooling-off swim opportunities. Afterwards we feasted
on fresh mango from Antigua. This mango was of historic proportion - quite honestly, it was as big
as an NFL football with the ends cut off. I was worried that it would not be tasty, but it was
gloriously sweet and delicious - my favorite fruit is almost fully in season - hurray!
Grapefruit, Clementines, Limes & Starfruit abound
Mid-way through July and we are finally breaking loose and heading south to the Tobago Cays with
our first stop being Bequia. The overnighter was great, with stunning bioluminescence. We had a
small pod of porpoises rocketing around and through our bow wave, so cool. Once in Bequia we
didn't stay long, a single overnight, then just dropped off some trash and made a small shop at
Doris' before heading down to Canouan.
On our trip down to Canouan we caught a nice cero mackerel. Cleaned it in South Glossy Bay,
Canouan then decided to head to SaltWhistle Bay, Mayreau to escape the roll. Had a great time in
and around the Grenadines and Tobago Cays with lots of snorkeling, swimming and chilling out.
With the hurricane season being underway and the temperatures high we are ready for our summer
retreat into the marina. At the beginning of August we took a slip at Port Louis Marina in the St.
Georges Lagoon, Grenada. Lots of A/C, TV and internet, plus a pool and restaurant onsite, and
easy access to the local buses. Lots of French, French Canadian and American boats here. We
haven't been doing much socializing this summer, mostly just cocooning a bit.
Things got exciting when TS Tomas was on track to head between Trinidad and Grenada.
Fortunately it took a northerly jog just prior to reaching the island chain. We only experienced some
small winds and rain, but we really feel for the local folks up island that depend on their crops and
fruit trees. They will have to deal with the aftermath. The Grenadians are only just now beginning
to see a return of the nutmeg trees that Hurricane Ivan took out.
August through October, 2010
Port Louis Marina
After lazing about the entire summer we're behind the curve on boat projects and routine
maintenance. The weather here has begun to get a bit more temperate with lots of wind and rain.
This makes doing the chores much more pleasant. We've been scraping, sanding and refinishing
our abovedecks wood, which includes the rubrail, toerail, jerry jug board, hatchbox, deckbox, and
cabintop rails. It's a rewarding project. The tropical climate really reaks havoc on varnish. Over the
years we have used Cetol, Bristol Finish and Epifanes varnish. As far as longevity goes, we've
been best pleased by Bristol Finish, which is quite durable and looks good, although not as good as
10 coats of varnish, however that might just be the workmanship, lol.
Ed's been doing the majority of the sanding and has also been hard at work cleaning and polishing
the stainless, as well as cleaning, oiling and reversing the anchor chain. Let's not forget all the
other routine stuff like maintaining the levels on the battery bank, backflushing the watermaker,
changing the oil etc. (you get the picture). And the work goes on, but not for long... we'll be heading
out of here soon, hopefully before the Christmas winds start howling non-stop.
We finally made a break for it out of Port Louis and down around to Prickly Bay for a few days of
"shakedown" after 4 months using shore water and power. All things went well with the exception of
our fresh water pump which needed to be replaced. Soon after, a weather window presented itself
and we headed out towards Martinique to meet up with our friends on 'Libertas'. It was a bouncy
motorsail but doable and after a sunset stopover in Rodney Bay we took off the next morning and
were anchored up in St. Anne's beach just outside of Le Marin, Martinique by mid-afternoon. We
spent a few days getting shopped up, doing laundry and all that, then 'Dreamtime' and 'Libertas'
took off for the windward side of the island. First stop is at Ilet Long in the Baie du Simon. It's
beautiful on this side of the island - mainly agricultural, patchwork looking landscape with Mount
Pele in the background. Lots of sugarcane and bananas. No boat traffic to speak of except
Took a nice dinghy outing to the beach on the other side of the reefs with Shawn & Joe and enjoyed
a leg-stretching, photo-op'ing, shell-scavenging couple of hours. The weather has been mostly
ENE or E however we're expecting SE which should help us move north up to the next big bay & to
Ilet Oscar, allegedly where Empress Josephine did her beach bathing. All and all a lot of fun and
totally deserted which is delightful after being in busy Marin.
Early December, 2010
Photos from the windward side of Martinique
After enjoying ourselves at Ilet Long we headed over to Ilet Oscar and the Baths (fond blanc). It was
a zoo the day we were there - must have been 75 kids, just like Spring Break in Daytona. Christmas
break I guess. Beautiful behind the reefs, a bit like the Tobago Cays. One day was enough of that
so it was onward to Havre du Robert. Had great visibility for our passage through the reefs (Ed
enjoys a challenge), and we are currently anchored at Ilet Petit Martinique. We extend our very best
Holiday Wishes to all our friends and family. Merry Christmas, and Happy New Year!!
Late December, 2010